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The Joy of Riding a Bicycle: Explore the World at Your Own Pace
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A secluded wooden temple in a countryside.

Japan for Cyclists vs. Non-Cyclists

Two Very Different Experiences of the Same Country Japan changes dramatically depending on how you move through it. Most travelers experience Japan by train: efficient,…

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White line. Engines. Stoplights. Trucks brushing past.

Across Tokyo to Shibuya Crossing

Put your headphones on and let’s ride: Tokyo east to west. White line. Engines. Stoplights. Trucks brushing past. Imperial Palace laps, then deeper into the…

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Ginkaku-ji, a 15th-century Zen temple featuring tranquil gardens.

First-Time Japan Travel Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

Japan is one of the easiest countries in the world to travel through—and one of the easiest to misunderstand. First-time visitors often arrive with a…

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Kiyomizu-dera, Sanjunoto Pagoda on a rainy day

Kyoto Crowds and Timing: How to Experience the City Without Losing Your Mind

Few cities reward patience as much as Kyoto—and few punish poor timing more ruthlessly. For many first-time visitors, Kyoto is imagined as a place of…

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Cycling Toward the Atlantic is a record of going forward, one day at a time.

Cycling Toward the Atlantic: A Bicycle Journey Through France

My new book, Cycling Toward the Atlantic: A Bicycle Journey Through France, is now available on Amazon. This is not a guidebook. There are no…

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Much of the riding happens on narrow shoulders or faded edge lanes.

Cycling the Nakasendō Today: Minokamo to Hashima, Reality Along the Kiso River

Some cycling days in Japan unfold quietly, following rivers through wooded valleys or slipping past villages barely awake. Others are defined less by scenery than…

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Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion, situated on the edge of a pond called Kyōko-chi ("Mirror Pond") is surrounded by a meticulously maintained, historic Japanese strolling garden.

Temple-Hopping in Kyoto: Why You Shouldn’t Try to See Them All

With over 1,600 temples and countless shrines, Kyoto presents visitors with a paradox: abundance so great it can overwhelm. Guidebooks, itineraries, and social media feeds…

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Young Japanese girls wearing kimono temple-sightseeing in Kyoto, Japan

Not Geishas — Kimono Culture and Everyday Performance in Kyoto

Walking through Kyoto, especially around temple districts like Kiyomizu-dera, Gion, or the Higashiyama slopes, you will almost certainly encounter young women dressed in elaborate kimono.…

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A Journey Along the Nakasendō and Tōkaidō from Tokyo to Kyoto and Back

Cycling the Old Roads of Japan: From Tokyo to Kyoto and Back

Cycling the Old Roads of Japan — From Tokyo to Kyoto and Back Japan has long fascinated cyclists. Its reputation for safety, infrastructure, efficiency, and…

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GPS track of a Lookout Mountain ride

Lookout Mountain vs. Mont Ventoux: Two Climbs, Two Worlds of Cycling

For cyclists, mountains are more than just roads carved into rock; they’re tests of grit, beauty, and sometimes survival. Two climbs that capture very different…

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