What does it mean to cross Japan not as a tourist rushing between highlights, but as a traveler moving at bicycle speed—slow enough to notice what remains, fast enough to accept what has vanished?
This book chronicles a complete cycling journey across the heart of Honshū: from Tokyo into the mountains along the historic Nakasendō, through Kyoto and Nara on foot and by bike, and back to Tokyo following the modern Tōkaidō corridor. It is not a race, nor a checklist of must-see attractions, but a lived account of riding through landscapes where Edo-period highways now coexist with expressways, suburbs, tunnels, and rail lines.
The journey begins with acclimatization rides inside Tokyo, learning how to cycle within one of the world’s largest cities. It then follows the Nakasendō westward through the Japanese Alps—valleys, post towns, long climbs, rain, tunnels, and selective detours onto preserved walking sections. Time in Kyoto is spent largely on foot, wandering temple districts and neighborhoods with purpose rather than prescription, followed by a visit to Nara. The return east along the Tōkaidō favors continuity over nostalgia, acknowledging that much of the old road survives only in fragments scattered across dense modern development.
Throughout, the author reflects on choices: when to linger, when to bypass, when a historical remnant warrants a stop—and when it does not. Practical realities are addressed candidly: traffic, weather, tunnels, crowds, navigation, lodging, rail use with a bicycle, and the limits of romantic expectations. GPX files for each stage are provided as optional references, not rigid itineraries.
Illustrated with 199 photographs and concise captions, the book offers both visual inspiration and grounded guidance. Written for cyclists who value context as much as kilometers, it speaks to readers contemplating their own journey through Japan—whether they follow the same routes exactly, adapt them freely, or simply want to understand what cycling these historic corridors truly entails today.
What the Book Covers
Nakasendō — 12 cycling stages across the Japanese Alps
Kyoto and Nara — 10 days of temple and cultural exploration on foot and by bicycle
Tōkaidō — 8 cycling stages following Japan’s historic coastal corridor
In Hindsight — reflections on route choices, weather, pacing, and expectations
Stage Summary Tables — distances and elevation gains for all stages
Resources — apps, websites, and GPX downloads to help plan your own journey
Written by a seasoned cyclist and world traveler, author of more than 40 published cycling guides worldwide—including two earlier titles on Japan, Bicycle Touring Kyushu: Japan’s Onsen Island and Land of Fire and Hokkaido on Two Wheels: A Cyclist’s Guide to Japan’s Northern Frontier—this book distills decades of self-guided travel experience into a clear, realistic, and deeply personal account.
The time for Japan is now. Let this book be your guide to the enduring allure—and modern realities—of cycling the Old Roads of Honshū.
The downloadable format of the book on this page is a PDF.
To purchase the paperback version, go to: Amazon paperback January 2026 edition.