Known for its stunning natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture, Florianópolis, the capital and principal city on the island of Santa Catarina, dubbed Ilha da Magia, offers a diverse range of sights and experiences. From the historical streets of the city to the serene beaches along the city coastline to those all around the island, a ride around this enchanting island reveals countless highlights, whether natural or man-made. Bottom line, the island’s diverse landscapes, from rolling hills and lush forests to sandy beaches and scenic lagoons, provide a stunning backdrop for any avid cyclist.

In my recent post on my last trip to Brazil, I noted my original plan was a little different from what I ended up doing. Just change in plans because of weather. Instead of cycling across the state of Santa Catarina from Florianopolis to Iguazu Falls, I did a 360° bike tour around the Santa Catarina Island. Although the heart of the city is nestled on the west-central tip of the island, and the communities all around the island are separate settlements, they are Floripa’s de facto neighborhoods or referred to as districts. As a result, Ilha da Santa Catarina, the island, is routinely called simply Florianopolis.

Per the GPS composite map of my rides above, here’s a summary of the highlights of this fine destination.

Exploring the Heart of Florianópolis

I started my journey in the city itself, cycling through its bustling streets and around its picturesque coasting. As my first destination, I contemplated to ride up Morro da Cruz, a hill that offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding islands. It is said to offer a breathtaking perspective of Florianópolis’ diverse landscape, from the downtown area to the majestic coastline. But the weather was not cooperating, and so I kept to the streets, pondering to leave the climb for later.

On my first ride, I made my way across the two iconic bridges that connect Floripa to the mainland. Ponte Hercílio Luz (Hercílio Luz Bridge) is one of Brazil’s most famous landmarks. Completed in 1926, this stunning suspension bridge connects the island to the mainland, and its towering structure spans the waters of the Bay of Florianópolis. Cycling across it offered incredible views of the city and the ocean.

I then cycled across Pedro Ivo Campos Bridge, another essential connection between the island and the mainland. While not as visually striking as the Hercílio Luz Bridge, it was an important part of my route, guiding me through Florianópolis and further deepening my appreciation for the island’s infrastructure and beauty.

After crossing the bridges, I stopped at the Mercado Público de Florianópolis (Public Market), an iconic landmark brimming with local flavors and Brazilian culture. The market, housed in a beautiful historic building, is a perfect spot to sample local delicacies like fresh seafood, artisanal products, and traditional Brazilian snacks. It’s also a great place to interact with locals and soak up the island’s vibrant atmosphere.

A short distance away lies Praça XV de Novembro, a lively square surrounded by historical buildings. Dominating the square is the Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis Nossa Senhora Do Desterro e Santa Catarina De Alexandria, an impressive Catholic church dating back to 1908. The cathedral, with its twin towers, stained-glass windows, frescoes, and intricate statuary, is a beautiful example of Florianópolis’ architectural heritage. It’s a peaceful spot for reflection amidst the city’s hustle and bustle.

I ended my city exploration at the Álvaro de Carvalho Theater, an elegant 19th-century theater known for its cultural significance. The theater hosts various performances, from concerts to plays, and is a testament to the city’s deep cultural roots.

Cycling North: A Journey Through Charming Coastal Villages

From the city, I pedaled north along the coast, eventually reaching Santo Antonio de Lisboa, a charming historical neighborhood known for its colonial-era architecture and traditional Azorean influence. Here, I stopped to admire the beautiful Igreja Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Church of Our Lady of Needs), a small yet striking church with a peaceful atmosphere. The surrounding streets are lined with vibrant restaurants, boutiques, and local artisans, making it a perfect place for a leisurely stop.

Further along the coast, I cycled to Praia Do Sambaqui, a quiet and pristine beach that offers stunning views of the ocean and neighboring islands. Its calm waters make it ideal for a peaceful retreat, away from the crowds.

Cycling South: Coastal Beauty and Historic Sites

Heading south, I passed the Florianópolis International Airport (Aeroporto Internacional de Florianópolis – Hercílio Luz), a bustling hub that connects the island to the rest of Brazil. As I cycled toward Ribeirão da Ilha, I was struck by the historic charm of the area. Ribeirão da Ilha is known for its old Portuguese-style houses, traditional oyster farming, and picturesque coastal views.

I visited Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lapa, a beautiful church perched on a hill overlooking the sea. The simple church architecture style, inspired by the traditional architecture from the Azorean archipelago, serene atmosphere and stunning views, made it one of the highlights of my ride through the southern part of the island.

Crossing to the Eastern Side: A Secluded Escape

Next, I crossed over to the eastern side of the island, heading to Morro das Pedras. This quiet, less-visited area is known for its rugged coastline and natural beauty. It’s a peaceful spot to disconnect and enjoy the island’s raw, untamed landscape.

Cycling through Campeche eventually, I arrived at Lagoa da Conceição, a stunning lagoon that became one of the most memorable stops of my journey, alas, not just for the local sights and sounds – it rained non-stop for four days!

Lagoa da Conceição: The Island’s Jewel

Despite the bad weather, Lagoa da Conceição, with its vibrant lagoon, stunning beaches, and breathtaking views, was still the highlight of my entire roundabout bike tour of the island. From the Mirante do Morro da Lagoa da Conceição, I had a bird’s-eye view of the entire area, where the lagoon met the ocean, surrounded by hills and lush vegetation.

I explored the lagoon area on foot, visiting Lagoa Santuário Nossa Senhora da Imaculada Conceição da Lagoa, a charming chapel nestled between the lush vegetation of the hills and the lagoon. The tranquility of the lagoon was the perfect contrast to the lively beaches I would soon visit.

From Lagoa, I cycled to some of the most famous beaches on the island and in all of Brazil, including Mole Beach (Praia Mole) and Praia da Galheta. These beaches are popular with surfers and nature lovers, offering crystal-clear waters, golden sand, and dramatic cliffs.

Continuing north, I visited Barra da Lagoa. This beach offers a relaxed vibe, with calm waters and a welcoming atmosphere.

The Northern Beaches: History and Legends

Cycling further north, I skirted the pristine Praia do Moçambique before reaching Ingleses Beach (Praia dos Ingleses). This beach holds an interesting history: it’s named after the English fishermen who frequented the area in the 19th century, and some of whom presumably settled here. Today, it’s a popular beach with a lively atmosphere, great for swimming, beach volleyball, or simply relaxing in the sun.

Completing the 360° Ride Around the Island

After experiencing the northern beaches, I cycled back, passing Santo Antonio de Lisboa once more and headed back to Florianópolis city. The entire journey around the island was not just a physical challenge but also a deep dive into the culture, nature, and history of this beautiful region.

Why Florianópolis is So Special

Florianópolis is a city with something for everyone. It’s a popular destination for retirees seeking a relaxed pace of life, but it also offers vibrant cultural experiences and breathtaking natural landscapes. With some of the lowest crime rates in Brazil, it’s a safe and welcoming destination, making it a perfect place for travelers of all kinds. That’s all aside being known as one of the hottest party towns in Brazil!

Whether you should cycle around the island, exploring its historical landmarks, or lounging on one of its many beaches, Florianópolis offers a diverse range of experiences that will leave you likely longing to return. I, too, may have to come back, as I never made it back to ride up Morro da Cruz…

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One of those destinations deep in the interior, however, that, despite my having been for many years in the travel business and having sent there many clients in the past, eluded me, were the Iguazu Falls, a site of exceptional beauty and ecological significance. Finally, last summer at last, I planned a trip to the Iguazu Falls, although not as a sole destination in its own right. I picked it as a cycling destination of a tour I conceived would begin in Florianopolis on the east coast of Brazil.

Long aware of Florianopolis, the capital of the state of Santa Catarina, being hailed as Brazil’s slice of Europe on account of its European immigrants who comprise nearly 80% of total population, and also a party destination aside being labeled one of the ten most dynamic cities of the world, I have considered visiting it before. Even though the last two labels Florianopolis received almost 20 years ago, these assessments gave Florianopolis a definite allure. Although still considered by Brazilians as one of the best places where to live and retire in Brazil, Florianopolis is also one of the safest cites in the country, and that is indeed one of its strong points. The appraisal of being one of the most desirable places where to live in Brazil largely stems from having the country’s third highest Human Development Index score among all Brazilian cities, a statistical composite index of life expectancy, years of completed education, and per capita income.

To me, as a cyclist, of primary interest in Florianopolis were the wooded hills, the island’s many bays and lagoons, and some 40 sandy beaches, all of which promised cycling in an appealing environment. And so this past September, I packed my bicycle and finally flew down there.

Despite selecting Florianopolis as only the starting point of my cycling tour, I planned to ride a week around the Santa Catarina island before setting out west toward Iguazu. Though at the back of my mind was the terrain and distance of well over 1,000 kilometers that I had to cover if I hoped to reach Iguazu, I first planned to cross the Serra do Mar, the coastal range, and explore the mountains on the other side during my second week.

Though topography and nature always make up the primary appeal of any destination, history and culture, architecture and man-made attributes of any place reign near my affinity for selecting particular cycling destinations just as well. Although the Portuguese landed on the Florianopolis island as early as the beginning of the 16th century, the first permanent settlement didn’t follow until the late 17th century. Interestingly enough, the influx of the first Portuguese settlers came from the Azores, hence the earliest architecture around the Ilha Santa Catarina carries the architectural style of the Azores Islands (church image below in Ribeirão da Ilha.) German immigrants came in the mid-19th century, followed by the Italians in the late 1800s, and more European immigrants arrived after WWI and WWII.

Portuguese colonial architecture always interested me. Last time I traveled in the footsteps of the Portuguese was in India, cycling Mumbai to Diu, and time before that cycling Mysore to Ft. Kochi.

Planning a cycling route from Florianópolis to Iguazu Falls proved challenging. Komoot offered little in the way of route data, while RideWithGPS and Strava too had only a few GPS tracks I could find in their database. Brazilian cyclists prefer Wikiloc. After studying maps and consulting with friends and contacts in Brazil, I eventually chose a route that looked promising.

However, as my expected departure approached, the weather took a turn; the forecast called for persistent rain for almost the entire week ahead. And so, instead of crossing the Serra do Mar and exploring the mountains beyond and heading toward Iguazu, the imminent dreadful weather forced me to adapt Plan B.

After my initial week of day rides from my base in Floripa, as Florianópolis is commonly known, I needed to check out from my Airbnb studio. Unable to ride west to the mainland, I set out cycling south from Floripa. Set to ride until the rain starts, I continued to the east, where the rain finally forced me to halt and take a break until the weather would change again.

I survived the rain in Lagoa da Conceição, a popular lagoon-side neighborhood in the east-central part of Ilha de Santa Catarina. The heavy non-stop rain lasted five days, just as predicted. During this downtime, I bought a plane ticket to Foz do Iguaçu, timing the departure for the end of the rain forecast. This allowed me not only to ride back to Florianópolis, but also complete a full 360 degree circle of the island.

In retrospect, having given up on a 1,000km-long bicycle tour from Florianopolis to Iguazu, and even an outing across the Serra, at least I cycled around the entire Santa Catarina island and I made it to Iguazu, where I then spent a week and a half exploring the magnificent waterfalls in the tri-country border area of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. The natural beauty of Iguazu Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stole the show of my entire trip, leaving an unforgettable impression on me, hence I will need to come back to it in another post. That said, undeniably, my planned tour cycling from Florianopolis to Iguazu will have to wait for another trip to Brazil.

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But hold on, before you pack your panniers and hit the road, let’s ditch the labels. “Cycling,” “bikepacking,” “bicycle touring” – these terms dance around the campfire of your wanderlust, but they’re just embers compared to the blazing fire of bicycle travel itself.

Sure, the gear might differ: sleek road bikes adorned with sleek racks for the tourer, burly mountain rigs bristling with frame bags for the bikepacker. But the soul of the adventure? Unmistakably the same. It’s the thrill of the unknown horizon, the quiet hum of tires against asphalt, the ache in your legs that speaks volumes about the miles you’ve conquered.

The stats tell the story: over 2 billion bicycles grace our planet, and the bicycle travel industry is booming. From the epic cycling traverse of Taiwan to the sun-drenched trails of Tuscany, the world’s a smorgasbord of pedal-powered possibilities.

But here’s the secret sauce most websites won’t tell you: bicycle travel isn’t about the gear, the distance, or the destination. It’s about the journey, the kaleidoscope of experiences that unfold with each revolution of your pedals. It’s about the sunrise over a forgotten country lane, the kind eyes of a stranger offering you a cup of chai, the silent symphony of nature whispering through ancient forests.

So, ditch the labels and embrace the adventure. Whether you’re a seasoned cycle-touring veteran or a newbie with a borrowed bike and a spark of wanderlust, the open road awaits. Pack light, pack laughter, and pack your heart full of curiosity. Because in the tapestry of bicycle travel, every thread, from the smooth tarmac of a coastal highway to the bone-jarring singletrack of a mountain pass, is a stroke of pure, unadulterated joy.

Remember, the greatest adventure isn’t found on maps, but in the rhythm of your own two wheels. So, saddle up, fellow travelers! Let’s paint the world with the colors of bicycle travel, one pedal stroke at a time.

**Footloose Cycling is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a way for websites to earn advertising revenues by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

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Cycling Sapporo: Explore the bustling streets of Sapporo, a vibrant city that blends modernity with tradition. Navigate through its dynamic urban landscape and outlying areas.

Wakkanai and the Extreme North: Conquer the northern frontier, including Cape Soya, Japan’s northernmost point. Experience the thrill of cycling where untamed beauty meets the resilience of nature.

Shiretoko National Park and the East: Immerse yourself in the serene landscapes of Shiretoko National Park. Bicycle through its pristine wilderness, witness breathtaking views, and connect with nature only Hokkaido can offer.

Furano Valley and the Center: Cycle through the picturesque, vast valley adorned with lavender fields and wildflowers. Traverse the heart of Hokkaido from the Blue Pond to the smoking caldera of Mt Tokachi.

Written by a seasoned, avid cyclist and world traveler, with 35 published cycling guides to destinations all over the world, “Hokkaido on Two Wheels” stems from the author’s fourth extensive journey in Japan. This is your guide to the allure of Hokkaido!

The book outlines 22 stages, complete with GPS tracks. Seamlessly navigate between the four highlighted regions and back to the starting point of your tour. Gain more insight into each of the 22 stages and their respective areas in beautiful and informative pictures, 140 images total.

Whether you’re an experienced cyclist or a newcomer to the world of bicycle travel, “Hokkaido on Two Wheels” is your indispensable companion for planning your own Hokkaido cycling adventure.

Download Hokkaido on Two Wheels PDF. Buy a paperback version at Amazon.

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The EuroVelo 7 ride through Bohemia is a scenic route along peaceful Vltava from the Austrian border to Prague, and beyond to Melnik at the confluence of Vltava and Labe, whence you can continue cycling along Labe all the way to Dresden. Add the EuroVelo 7 route through Bohemia to your list!

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As one of Victoria’s license plate slogans says, “Victoria – The Place to Be,” is a worthy destination for any avid cyclist.

Although Victoria is Australia’s second-smallest state, and the second-most-populated state, it’s the most densely populated state in Australia. Sounds almost like Europe or the East Coast of the United States, but it is misleading. Victoria is still vast and the six weeks I had weren’t enough to cover it all, nor I aspired to having to see it all. I had to pick and just ride. Having completed my cycling tour, all I can say is Victoria is enchanting, and I crave for bikepacking more of it. Perhaps I shall return once again. It’s been ages since I was in Australia before this bike trip, so I had to come back. Victoria, the landscape, the people, the culture is a must see destination, whether you are a cyclist, but bicycle travel around Victoria is definitively a way to go. More to come on my cycling tour of Victoria.

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Cycling across Sardinia, Italy’s second largest island, beholds stunning landscapes, mountainous stretches of uninhabited territory, challenging climbs, fast descents, and vestiges of the Nuragic civilization. While Sardinia’s beaches are legendary, and most visitors to this isle are sun worshippers, Sardinia offers some epic bicycle rides.

Tour length: It depends, but with two to three weeks to spare, you can ride 500 to 800+ kilometers all across the island, starting from Olbia in the northeast, and finish in Cagliari, the capital, in the south. Of course, you can easily ride twice as much, but there in no reason to rush along the way as Sardinia is worth a few days of just hanging out, and sample its arts and culture, including and not to forget its wines.

Difficulty: Moderate to hard

Terrain: The coastline is a mix of hilly and flat; the interior is predominately mountainous.

Surface: Mostly paved roads with light to almost no traffic.

Climate: Being relatively a large and hilly island, Sardinia’s weather is not uniform. The East is drier, but paradoxically suffers the worst rainstorms. With much the same latitude as Majorca and south of Italy, Sardinia sports a Mediterranean climate, with mild, rainy winters and hot summers. “Mistral,” the dominant wind from the northwest off the coast of France, blows throughout the year, on and off, though it is most prevalent in winter and spring, when it can become quite uncomfortable for a cyclist. Usually dry and cool, it brings respite from the summer heat, although it becomes less of a factor, particularly on the west coast and the further south you ride.

Attractions: Rocky coasts, striking headlands, deep bays and inlets, sprinkled with amazing beaches. Sardinia’s coast and interior are mountainous, with stretches of uninhabited territory, offering many challenging climbs and fast descents. The ranges run crosswise, separated by wide alluvial valleys and flatlands. Cycling Sardinia is your best way to experience the beauty of Sardinia’s long-untouched landscapes dotted with vestiges of the Nuragic civilization and move about at your own pace. Ruled by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Byzantines, and the Iberian Crown of Aragon before the period of Italian unification, Sardinia’s culture and history was remarkably rich. I cycled Sardinia this past spring, in April-May, and will post more on this resplendent island.

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Once upon a time, there was an impenetrable jungle coast to coast, between the Atlantic and Pacific shores of Panama. Historically known as the Isthmus of Darien, it covered the narrow strip of land that lies between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean.

The idea of the Panama Canal, a water passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, dates back to 1513, when Vasco Núñez de Balboa, a Spanish explorer, governor, and conquistador, first crossed the isthmus, becoming the first European to lead an expedition to have reached the Pacific from the New World.

Cycling along the canal is the obvious and ideal route to begin the traverse of the isthmus between the two oceans. The traffic is not that heavy, but the road is narrow and has no shoulder. Still, I was glad to be out of the city and on the road again. Cycling light, no bike bags with only a daypack, I hoped for the best.

As the travel restrictions recently eased, after a year spent home, I thought it was time to get back on the road away from home and go cycling across Panama coast to coast.

In between the canal and the road, a railway line, known as the Panama Canal Railway, follows the canal. Its construction preceded the Panama Canal by half a century. The road does not always offer the view of the canal, but when it does, seeing giant container vessels quietly ply the narrow parts of the canal seems surreal.

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Crossing the Prut River from Romania to Moldova, you enter the historical region of Bessarabia, now Moldova and Transniester.

A long day riding rolling landscape, with continuous spiky climbs 7% to 12%. Only remote villages from the Romanian border to Rîșcani (pronounced Rishan) in the Republic of Moldova, not a single store, a handful of cars and horse-drawn carriages, and scarcely anyone on foot anywhere all day otherwise.

Suddenly shiny gold copulas of a brand new Eastern Orthodox monastery of Saint Trinity at Glinjeni appeared like a mirage on the horizon and drew me off the highway. Were it not for two nuns inside the church and four kids kicking a decrepit old soccer ball on an empty dusty street, the sizable village seemed like a ghost town.

Read more: Cycling to Odessa: Journey Across Eastern Europe

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The fact is to most Western Europeans, not to mention to the Americans, “the Balkans” is somewhere far away in the east and southeast, on the periphery of Europe, hence on a doorstep of Asia, Greece excluded, of course.

Where does Asia begin? We aspire to define Asia beginning beyond the Ural Mountains. Although we refer to Turkey as Asia Minor, we consider it the “Gateway to the East” and think of it being in both Europe and Asia.

At Nis and Leskovac, the region still looks and feels as Central Serbia, but that changes south of Vranje. Suddenly minarets protrude from the skyline of villages and instead of Greek Orthodox churches, Muslim mosques dominate the village scape. To the west, at Bujonavac (featured image), a mountain ridge separates this region from Kosovo.

Read more: Cycling to Athens PDF

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