Bohemia Archives - Footloose Cycling

A ride to the 1620 site “Battle of White Mountain” in Prague

adminFTG — Sun, 27 Aug 2023 09:26:53 +0000

White Mountain, Bílá Hora in Czech, near Prague, is hardly a mountain at 381 m above sea level, yet it still holds echoes of that pivotal moment in time, despite the centuries that have passed. The Battle of White Mountain, which took place on November 8, 1620, indeed had profound consequences, not only for the Czech lands but also for Europe as a whole. At its core, this battle marked the clash between the Catholic Habsburg monarchy, led by Emperor Ferdinand II, and the Protestant forces, including Bohemian nobility.

In the European context, this battle can be seen as a significant episode within the larger canvas of the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), one of the most devastating conflicts in European history. The Battle of White Mountain ignited the powder keg of religious and political tensions that had been simmering across the continent.

The outcome of White Mountain was a resounding victory for the Catholic Habsburgs. It marked the suppression of Protestantism in the Czech lands, as Catholicism was forcibly reestablished. This had a ripple effect, with the Habsburgs attempting to re-Catholicize other regions under their rule.

At the heart of the battlefield stands a memorial cairn on a small earth mound erected in 1920. Dedicated to all those who fell in this battle, it commemorates the battle and its significance – the defeat of the Bohemian Revolt, execution of its leaders, forced conversion to Catholicism or exile, growing influence of German-speaking elites – dubbed as 200 years of a Dark Age in Czech Bohemia. Its vantage point offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, offering a glimpse of the battlefield as it once was.

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Vltava River north of Prague: Ride EuroVelo 7

adminFTG — Wed, 23 Aug 2023 09:48:30 +0000

Vltava River flows south to north, through Prague and merges with Labe aka Elbe River. On the northern outskirts of Prague, where I ride often and took this photograph, Vltava resumes a peaceful flow amid cliffs and romantic setting of hills, the old city near but left behind. The Vltava River has witnessed the entire history of Prague. This historical connection signifies the river as a guardian and protector of Prague’s heritage. The Vltava has been a muse for countless artists, writers, and musicians. Bedřich Smetana’s symphonic poem “Vltava” captures the essence of the river and its journey through Bohemia, but refers mostly to its course in the south of Bohemia, hence south of Prague.

The EuroVelo 7 ride through Bohemia is a scenic route along peaceful Vltava from the Austrian border to Prague, and beyond to Melnik at the confluence of Vltava and Labe, whence you can continue cycling along Labe all the way to Dresden. Add the EuroVelo 7 route through Bohemia to your list!

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Ride up to Mělník

adminFTG — Sat, 25 Dec 2021 15:56:04 +0000

It’s a short detour from EuroVelo 7, but a rewarding not to be missed climb to the heart of the small town of Mělník, high above the confluence of the Labe and Vltava rivers. Charles IV established Melnik’s fate when he brought vines from Burgundy to plant on its hillsides in the 15th century. Crossing Labe River off the EuroVelo 7 path, the impressive panorama of the Mělník Castle high above the river lures. Dating back to the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries, rebuilt following fires in the 16th century in the Renaissance style, the castle crowns the hilltop, its slopes covered with rows of vines.

While the medieval lanes of the town and the main plaza are inviting to soft-pedal around or for a stroll, it’s from the Gothic-Renaissance tower of the Church of Saint Peter and Paul that the panorama of the confluence of the two rivers will etch itself in your memory. On a clear day, you can see as far north as the mound of Mount Říp. Following the EuroVelo 7 route to Prague, it’s 60 pleasant kilometers to the north side of the Prague Castle, hence approximately 120 km round trip, all of it along Vltava until Mělník.

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CYCLING LABE RIVER

adminFTG — Tue, 21 Dec 2021 16:18:19 +0000

Twelfth largest in Europe, Labe, (Elbe in English and German) rises in northern Bohemia. One of central Europe’s major waterways, Labe flows from Czechia through Germany to the North Sea. Along the river leads the EuroVelo 7, the Sun Route, that begins at the North Cape at the apex of Norway and ends at the bottom of Sicily, more exactly further south in Malta. While from one end to the other is almost 8,000 kilometers, you can ride only a short worthwhile segment of it, from Prague to Dresden or the other way around, a scenic river ride of a mere 230 km.

Panorama of northern Bohemia

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BIKEPACKING TO MOUNT ŘÍP

adminFTG — Sat, 18 Dec 2021 14:25:22 +0000

A fine bicycle day trip out of Prague or when cycling in north-central Bohemia is to visit Mount Říp, a 459 m solitary hill rising from České středohoří, the Central Bohemian flatland, where, according to a legend, the first Slavic tribes, led by Forefather Čech, first settled dating back to the 6th century.

There is an easier approach to the mountain from the north side of it, with pavement until the last part of the ascent. Coming from the south, I figured why not go straight up; it will be a shortcut. While not asphalt, the rough dirt and stone road soon deteriorated to a grassy singletrack. But it was quiet, and I was all alone. The views back south whence I started from were superb.

And then, as if in a fairytale, I entered the wonderful deciduous forest and a smooth path that circumnavigates the mountain, not a live soul around. The back door entrance to the mountain sure has its romance.

On top of MOUNT ŘÍP is a Romanesque rotunda of Saint George, dating to 1126.

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Bikepacking Bohemia

adminFTG — Sun, 12 Dec 2021 16:11:42 +0000

It was too much of a hassle in these uncertain, daily-changing restrictions of international travel, to bring my Salsa road-n-gravel carbon bike, so I flew to Prague without. I still had my old carbon Scott road bike there. Having changed its handlebars for Salsa Cowbell 3 two years ago, definitely a more comfortable option, I mounted couple frame bags, and I was ready for a little bikepacking adventure in Bohemia.

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