If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing one of nature’s most magnificent wonders, Iguazu Falls should be at the top of your list. Located at the border of Brazil and Argentina, with a small portion in Paraguay, the falls are not just an iconic natural wonder, but also a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site. A visit to Iguazu promises an unforgettable adventure, where you can immerse yourself in the sheer power and beauty of nature.

Why Visit Iguazu Falls?

Iguazu Falls is not only one of the most awe-inspiring waterfalls in the world, but it’s also one of the New Seven Natural Wonders of the World. The falls consist of more than 270 individual waterfalls, spread out over a 2.7-kilometer-wide expanse. The name Iguazu comes from the Guaraní and Tupi languages, meaning “big water,” which perfectly captures the overwhelming scale and intensity of this incredible natural phenomenon. The falls are located on the Iguazu River, which flows into the Paraná River, creating a dramatic and beautiful border between Brazil and Argentina.

But what makes Iguazu Falls so special? Here are a few facts:

• Size: The falls stretch across nearly 2.7 kilometers, making it one of the largest waterfall systems in the world.
• Height: The falls vary in height from 60 meters to 82 meters, depending on the section.
• El Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat): This is the most famous and dramatic section, where the water plunges into a deep abyss, creating a spectacular spray and thunderous sound.
• Flora and Fauna: The area is rich in biodiversity, from exotic birds like toucans to the playful coatis and vibrant butterflies that flutter around.

But beyond the statistics, the reason to visit Iguazu is simple: it is awe-inspiring. Whether you’re standing on a platform surrounded by mist or taking a boat ride beneath the falls, the power of the cascading water and the surrounding jungle creates a sensory experience that is second to none.

Making the Most of Your Visit

Iguazu Falls is split between two countries: Brazil and Argentina, and each side offers a unique perspective of the falls. To truly experience the magnitude of Iguazu, it’s essential to explore both sides of the border.

The Brazilian Side: Best for Panoramic Views

Most visitors start their adventure on the Brazilian side, and for good reason. This side of the falls provides the best panoramic views, allowing you to take in the entire expanse of the waterfalls. The highlight is the viewpoint at the Hotel das Cataratas, a luxurious property nestled within the park. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking vistas of the falls and take the walking path leading to the famous El Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat).

To get the best view, it’s important to walk the entire trail to the end of the path, where you’ll find yourself right in the midst of the falls’ mist, feeling the thundering force of the water as it crashes down all around you. This viewpoint provides an unparalleled perspective that simply cannot be matched.

The Argentine Side: More Trails and Close-up Encounters

After soaking in the Brazilian side, head to the Argentine side, which offers a deeper, more intimate exploration of the falls. While the views are not as wide-ranging, the Argentine side boasts a network of trails that take you up close to the waterfalls. You can access the famous El Garganta del Diablo from the Argentine side, though the view is from above, looking down into the gorge below.

The park offers several walking circuits: the Circuito Inferior (Lower Circuit) and Circuito Superior (Upper Circuit), both of which allow visitors to get close to various sections of the falls. Expect to walk through lush jungle, encounter diverse wildlife, and be awestruck by the sheer volume of water. However, do note that the trails can get crowded, particularly during peak hours, and the heat can make long walks tiring.

Practical Tips for Visiting

• Accommodations: When visiting the Brazilian side, consider staying at the Hotel das Cataratas, which offers unrivaled access to the park, although it will be considerably more expensive than other accommodation options. I stayed at Hotel Colonial, an affordable option within walking distance of both, the Foz do Iguacu airport and the entrance to the national park. On the Argentine side, Puerto Iguazú offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget hostels to luxurious hotels. Staying near the bus terminal in Puerto Iguazú can be particularly convenient, as you’ll be able to easily access the falls and nearby restaurants.
• Transportation: While Uber is available on the Brazilian side, it’s not allowed to cross the border into Argentina. For border crossings, you’ll need to rely on official taxis or buses. I found the local Rio Uruguay bus line to be an affordable and efficient option for getting between Foz do Iguaçu and Puerto Iguazú.
• Currency: Be mindful of currency differences. Entrance fees are typically cheaper on the Brazilian side, and Argentina charges higher rates for foreign tourists. You’ll also find that the Argentine peso fluctuates a lot, which can affect your spending if you’re not prepared. Many businesses in Puerto Iguazú and Foz do Iguaçu will accept Brazilian reais or Argentine pesos, so it’s best to carry both currencies.
• Wildlife: Be sure to keep an eye out for wildlife! Iguazu Falls is home to a wide array of animals, including the curious coatis (small, lemur-like creatures) that can be both charming and mischievous. Keep a safe distance as they can be aggressive when seeking food. Birds, such as toucans and parrots, are also frequently spotted in the area.

Why Spend 10 Days?

While you could easily see the falls in two days, a longer stay allows you to experience the falls without the rush. I spent ten days between the Brazilian and Argentine sides, taking my time to soak in the beauty of the falls, explore the surrounding region, and enjoy the local culture. I spent several days in Puerto Iguazú, taking a break from the park to visit the Tres Hitos Fronteras (Three Borders Landmark), where the Iguazu and Paraná rivers meet, and learn about the unique history and culture of the tri-border region. There’s also the opportunity for day trips to nearby attractions, including the Jesuit missions in Argentina. Alternatively, continue to other parts of Argentina, cycling from the hubs of Salta or Mendoza.

Conclusion

Iguazu Falls is an unforgettable destination, offering something for every traveler. Whether you’re there for the panoramic views on the Brazilian side or the intimate encounters on the Argentine side, the falls will leave you with memories to last a lifetime. For those willing to spend a little extra time, the journey to Iguazu provides the chance to explore the biodiversity of the region, experience local culture, and fully immerse yourself in one of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders.

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Known for its stunning natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture, Florianópolis, the capital and principal city on the island of Santa Catarina, dubbed Ilha da Magia, offers a diverse range of sights and experiences. From the historical streets of the city to the serene beaches along the city coastline to those all around the island, a ride around this enchanting island reveals countless highlights, whether natural or man-made. Bottom line, the island’s diverse landscapes, from rolling hills and lush forests to sandy beaches and scenic lagoons, provide a stunning backdrop for any avid cyclist.

In my recent post on my last trip to Brazil, I noted my original plan was a little different from what I ended up doing. Just change in plans because of weather. Instead of cycling across the state of Santa Catarina from Florianopolis to Iguazu Falls, I did a 360° bike tour around the Santa Catarina Island. Although the heart of the city is nestled on the west-central tip of the island, and the communities all around the island are separate settlements, they are Floripa’s de facto neighborhoods or referred to as districts. As a result, Ilha da Santa Catarina, the island, is routinely called simply Florianopolis.

Per the GPS composite map of my rides above, here’s a summary of the highlights of this fine destination.

Exploring the Heart of Florianópolis

I started my journey in the city itself, cycling through its bustling streets and around its picturesque coasting. As my first destination, I contemplated to ride up Morro da Cruz, a hill that offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding islands. It is said to offer a breathtaking perspective of Florianópolis’ diverse landscape, from the downtown area to the majestic coastline. But the weather was not cooperating, and so I kept to the streets, pondering to leave the climb for later.

On my first ride, I made my way across the two iconic bridges that connect Floripa to the mainland. Ponte Hercílio Luz (Hercílio Luz Bridge) is one of Brazil’s most famous landmarks. Completed in 1926, this stunning suspension bridge connects the island to the mainland, and its towering structure spans the waters of the Bay of Florianópolis. Cycling across it offered incredible views of the city and the ocean.

I then cycled across Pedro Ivo Campos Bridge, another essential connection between the island and the mainland. While not as visually striking as the Hercílio Luz Bridge, it was an important part of my route, guiding me through Florianópolis and further deepening my appreciation for the island’s infrastructure and beauty.

After crossing the bridges, I stopped at the Mercado Público de Florianópolis (Public Market), an iconic landmark brimming with local flavors and Brazilian culture. The market, housed in a beautiful historic building, is a perfect spot to sample local delicacies like fresh seafood, artisanal products, and traditional Brazilian snacks. It’s also a great place to interact with locals and soak up the island’s vibrant atmosphere.

A short distance away lies Praça XV de Novembro, a lively square surrounded by historical buildings. Dominating the square is the Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis Nossa Senhora Do Desterro e Santa Catarina De Alexandria, an impressive Catholic church dating back to 1908. The cathedral, with its twin towers, stained-glass windows, frescoes, and intricate statuary, is a beautiful example of Florianópolis’ architectural heritage. It’s a peaceful spot for reflection amidst the city’s hustle and bustle.

I ended my city exploration at the Álvaro de Carvalho Theater, an elegant 19th-century theater known for its cultural significance. The theater hosts various performances, from concerts to plays, and is a testament to the city’s deep cultural roots.

Cycling North: A Journey Through Charming Coastal Villages

From the city, I pedaled north along the coast, eventually reaching Santo Antonio de Lisboa, a charming historical neighborhood known for its colonial-era architecture and traditional Azorean influence. Here, I stopped to admire the beautiful Igreja Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Church of Our Lady of Needs), a small yet striking church with a peaceful atmosphere. The surrounding streets are lined with vibrant restaurants, boutiques, and local artisans, making it a perfect place for a leisurely stop.

Further along the coast, I cycled to Praia Do Sambaqui, a quiet and pristine beach that offers stunning views of the ocean and neighboring islands. Its calm waters make it ideal for a peaceful retreat, away from the crowds.

Cycling South: Coastal Beauty and Historic Sites

Heading south, I passed the Florianópolis International Airport (Aeroporto Internacional de Florianópolis – Hercílio Luz), a bustling hub that connects the island to the rest of Brazil. As I cycled toward Ribeirão da Ilha, I was struck by the historic charm of the area. Ribeirão da Ilha is known for its old Portuguese-style houses, traditional oyster farming, and picturesque coastal views.

I visited Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lapa, a beautiful church perched on a hill overlooking the sea. The simple church architecture style, inspired by the traditional architecture from the Azorean archipelago, serene atmosphere and stunning views, made it one of the highlights of my ride through the southern part of the island.

Crossing to the Eastern Side: A Secluded Escape

Next, I crossed over to the eastern side of the island, heading to Morro das Pedras. This quiet, less-visited area is known for its rugged coastline and natural beauty. It’s a peaceful spot to disconnect and enjoy the island’s raw, untamed landscape.

Cycling through Campeche eventually, I arrived at Lagoa da Conceição, a stunning lagoon that became one of the most memorable stops of my journey, alas, not just for the local sights and sounds – it rained non-stop for four days!

Lagoa da Conceição: The Island’s Jewel

Despite the bad weather, Lagoa da Conceição, with its vibrant lagoon, stunning beaches, and breathtaking views, was still the highlight of my entire roundabout bike tour of the island. From the Mirante do Morro da Lagoa da Conceição, I had a bird’s-eye view of the entire area, where the lagoon met the ocean, surrounded by hills and lush vegetation.

I explored the lagoon area on foot, visiting Lagoa Santuário Nossa Senhora da Imaculada Conceição da Lagoa, a charming chapel nestled between the lush vegetation of the hills and the lagoon. The tranquility of the lagoon was the perfect contrast to the lively beaches I would soon visit.

From Lagoa, I cycled to some of the most famous beaches on the island and in all of Brazil, including Mole Beach (Praia Mole) and Praia da Galheta. These beaches are popular with surfers and nature lovers, offering crystal-clear waters, golden sand, and dramatic cliffs.

Continuing north, I visited Barra da Lagoa. This beach offers a relaxed vibe, with calm waters and a welcoming atmosphere.

The Northern Beaches: History and Legends

Cycling further north, I skirted the pristine Praia do Moçambique before reaching Ingleses Beach (Praia dos Ingleses). This beach holds an interesting history: it’s named after the English fishermen who frequented the area in the 19th century, and some of whom presumably settled here. Today, it’s a popular beach with a lively atmosphere, great for swimming, beach volleyball, or simply relaxing in the sun.

Completing the 360° Ride Around the Island

After experiencing the northern beaches, I cycled back, passing Santo Antonio de Lisboa once more and headed back to Florianópolis city. The entire journey around the island was not just a physical challenge but also a deep dive into the culture, nature, and history of this beautiful region.

Why Florianópolis is So Special

Florianópolis is a city with something for everyone. It’s a popular destination for retirees seeking a relaxed pace of life, but it also offers vibrant cultural experiences and breathtaking natural landscapes. With some of the lowest crime rates in Brazil, it’s a safe and welcoming destination, making it a perfect place for travelers of all kinds. That’s all aside being known as one of the hottest party towns in Brazil!

Whether you should cycle around the island, exploring its historical landmarks, or lounging on one of its many beaches, Florianópolis offers a diverse range of experiences that will leave you likely longing to return. I, too, may have to come back, as I never made it back to ride up Morro da Cruz…

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One of those destinations deep in the interior, however, that, despite my having been for many years in the travel business and having sent there many clients in the past, eluded me, were the Iguazu Falls, a site of exceptional beauty and ecological significance. Finally, last summer at last, I planned a trip to the Iguazu Falls, although not as a sole destination in its own right. I picked it as a cycling destination of a tour I conceived would begin in Florianopolis on the east coast of Brazil.

Long aware of Florianopolis, the capital of the state of Santa Catarina, being hailed as Brazil’s slice of Europe on account of its European immigrants who comprise nearly 80% of total population, and also a party destination aside being labeled one of the ten most dynamic cities of the world, I have considered visiting it before. Even though the last two labels Florianopolis received almost 20 years ago, these assessments gave Florianopolis a definite allure. Although still considered by Brazilians as one of the best places where to live and retire in Brazil, Florianopolis is also one of the safest cites in the country, and that is indeed one of its strong points. The appraisal of being one of the most desirable places where to live in Brazil largely stems from having the country’s third highest Human Development Index score among all Brazilian cities, a statistical composite index of life expectancy, years of completed education, and per capita income.

To me, as a cyclist, of primary interest in Florianopolis were the wooded hills, the island’s many bays and lagoons, and some 40 sandy beaches, all of which promised cycling in an appealing environment. And so this past September, I packed my bicycle and finally flew down there.

Despite selecting Florianopolis as only the starting point of my cycling tour, I planned to ride a week around the Santa Catarina island before setting out west toward Iguazu. Though at the back of my mind was the terrain and distance of well over 1,000 kilometers that I had to cover if I hoped to reach Iguazu, I first planned to cross the Serra do Mar, the coastal range, and explore the mountains on the other side during my second week.

Though topography and nature always make up the primary appeal of any destination, history and culture, architecture and man-made attributes of any place reign near my affinity for selecting particular cycling destinations just as well. Although the Portuguese landed on the Florianopolis island as early as the beginning of the 16th century, the first permanent settlement didn’t follow until the late 17th century. Interestingly enough, the influx of the first Portuguese settlers came from the Azores, hence the earliest architecture around the Ilha Santa Catarina carries the architectural style of the Azores Islands (church image below in Ribeirão da Ilha.) German immigrants came in the mid-19th century, followed by the Italians in the late 1800s, and more European immigrants arrived after WWI and WWII.

Portuguese colonial architecture always interested me. Last time I traveled in the footsteps of the Portuguese was in India, cycling Mumbai to Diu, and time before that cycling Mysore to Ft. Kochi.

Planning a cycling route from Florianópolis to Iguazu Falls proved challenging. Komoot offered little in the way of route data, while RideWithGPS and Strava too had only a few GPS tracks I could find in their database. Brazilian cyclists prefer Wikiloc. After studying maps and consulting with friends and contacts in Brazil, I eventually chose a route that looked promising.

However, as my expected departure approached, the weather took a turn; the forecast called for persistent rain for almost the entire week ahead. And so, instead of crossing the Serra do Mar and exploring the mountains beyond and heading toward Iguazu, the imminent dreadful weather forced me to adapt Plan B.

After my initial week of day rides from my base in Floripa, as Florianópolis is commonly known, I needed to check out from my Airbnb studio. Unable to ride west to the mainland, I set out cycling south from Floripa. Set to ride until the rain starts, I continued to the east, where the rain finally forced me to halt and take a break until the weather would change again.

I survived the rain in Lagoa da Conceição, a popular lagoon-side neighborhood in the east-central part of Ilha de Santa Catarina. The heavy non-stop rain lasted five days, just as predicted. During this downtime, I bought a plane ticket to Foz do Iguaçu, timing the departure for the end of the rain forecast. This allowed me not only to ride back to Florianópolis, but also complete a full 360 degree circle of the island.

In retrospect, having given up on a 1,000km-long bicycle tour from Florianopolis to Iguazu, and even an outing across the Serra, at least I cycled around the entire Santa Catarina island and I made it to Iguazu, where I then spent a week and a half exploring the magnificent waterfalls in the tri-country border area of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. The natural beauty of Iguazu Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stole the show of my entire trip, leaving an unforgettable impression on me, hence I will need to come back to it in another post. That said, undeniably, my planned tour cycling from Florianopolis to Iguazu will have to wait for another trip to Brazil.

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