Bhaba Kinnaur: Sutlej Valley to Spiti over Bhaba Pass

18 days in India, 7 days trekking; level: moderate - strenuous

Highest Point: 4,480m

Dates: May, June, September, October

Highlights: Delhi - Shimla - Wangtu - Kafnu - Bhaba Pass -Sangam - Dhankar Gompa - Tabo - Kaza - Kunzum La - Manali - Delhi 

Kinnaur is breathtakingly scenic and sparsely populated region. With turbulent torrents, two large rivers race through Kinnaur - the Sutlej and the Spiti. Scores of fast flowing streams feed these rivers and all their valleys are strikingly beautiful. The slopes are covered with thick woods, orchards and fields. One such valley with picturesque hamlets is Bhaba. Kinnaur is also home to some of India's oldest legends, and the religion of its people is a remarkable mix of Hinduism and Buddhism. Ancient Hindu texts have gone to the extent of placing the people of Kinnaur - the Kinners - as halfway between men and gods. It is no wonder that a local tradition maintains that Kinnaur with all its beauty fell from the clouds as a gift from the gods.

The trek to Bhaba Pass begins from Kafnoo (2,427m), 22 km from Wangtu on the banks of the Sutlej River. From Kafnoo, the trail gradually ascends along the Bhaba river to Shoiti/Chokhapani (3,000m). We continue to climb past Yangpa to Musrang, reaching Mulling (3,470m). Climbing further we cross Kara meadows, breaking camp at Pasha. The following day is a tough steep climb up to the Bhaba pass also known as the Kara-Taria Pass (4,290m). On the other side of the pass it's steeply down to our first camp site in the Pin Valley. We reach the hamlet of Mudh (3,925m) the next day. From Mudh we descend to Gulling and reach the large village of Sangam, the terminus of our trek. Traveling by jeeps we visit the Kungri Gompa and then the spectacular site of the Dhankar Gompa, relishing the magnificent views over the Spiti Valley and the high altitude desert, rugged and bare. On we continue to see Tabo Gompa and spend a night there. From Tabo we arrive to Kaza, the capital of Spiti. After a day's rest and a side trip to Ki Gompa we return to Manali via the Kunzum La (4,551m).